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Introduction Climbing is an increasingly popular activity and imposes specific physiological demands on the human body, which results in unique injury presentations. Of particular concern are overuse injuries (non-traumatic injuries). These injuries tend to present in the upper body and might be preventable with adequate knowledge of risk factors which could inform about injury prevention strategies. Research in this area has recently emerged but has yet to be synthesized comprehensively. Therefore, the aim of this study was to conduct a systematic review of the potential risk factors and injury prevention strategies for overuse injuries in adult climbers.
Methods This systematic review was conducted in accordance with the PRISMA guidelines. Databases were searched systematically, and articles were deemed eligible based upon specific criteria. Research included was original and peer-reviewed, involving climbers, and published in English, German or Czech. Outcomes included overuse injury, and at least one or more variable indicating potential risk factors or injury prevention strategies. The methodological quality of the included studies was assessed with the Downs and Black Quality Index. Data were extracted from included studies and reported descriptively for population, climbing sport type, study design, injury definition and incidence/prevalence, risk factors, and injury prevention strategies.
Results Out of 1,183 records, a total of 34 studies were included in the final analysis. Higher climbing intensity, bouldering, reduced grip/finger strength, use of a “crimp” grip, and previous injury were associated with an increased risk of overuse injury. Additionally, a strength training intervention prevented shoulder and elbow injuries. BMI/body weight, warm up/cool downs, stretching, taping and hydration were not associated with risk of overuse injury. The evidence for the risk factors of training volume, age/years of climbing experience, and sex was conflicting.
Discussion This review presents several risk factors which appear to increase the risk of overuse injury in climbers. Strength and conditioning, load management, and climbing technique could be targeted in injury prevention programs, to enhance the health and wellbeing of climbing athletes. Further research is required to investigate the conflicting findings reported across included studies, and to investigate the effectiveness of injury prevention programs.
Systematic Review Registrationhttps://www.crd.york.ac.uk/, PROSPERO (CRD42023404031).
Effects of exercise treatment on functional outcome parameters in mid-portion achilles tendinopathy
(2023)
Exercise interventions are evident in the treatment of mid-portion Achilles tendinopathy (AT). However, there is still a lack of knowledge concerning the effect of different exercise treatments on improving a specific function (e.g., strength) in this population. Thus, this study aimed to systematically review the effect of exercise treatments on different functional outcomes in mid-portion AT. An electronic database of Pubmed, Web of Science, and Cochrane Central Register of Controlled Trials were searched from inception to 21 February 2023. Studies that investigated changes in plantar flexor function with exercise treatments were considered in mid-portion AT. Only randomized controlled trials (RCTs) and clinical controlled trials (CCTs) were included. Functional outcomes were classified by kinetic (e.g., strength), kinematic [e.g., ankle range of motion (ROM)], and sensorimotor (e.g., balance index) parameters. The types of exercise treatments were classified into eccentric, concentric, and combined (eccentric plus concentric) training modes. Quality assessment was appraised using the Physiotherapy Evidence Database scale for RCTs, and the Joanna Briggs Institute scale for CCTs. The search yielded 2,260 records, and a total of ten studies were included. Due to the heterogeneity of the included studies, a qualitative synthesis was performed. Eccentric training led to improvements in power outcomes (e.g., height of countermovement jump), and in strength outcomes (e.g., peak torque). Concentric training regimens showed moderate enhanced power outcomes. Moreover, one high-quality study showed an improvement in the balance index by eccentric training, whereas the application of concentric training did not. Combined training modalities did not lead to improvements in strength and power outcomes. Plantarflexion and dorsiflexion ROM measures did not show relevant changes by the exercise treatments. In conclusion, eccentric training is evident in improving strength outcomes in AT patients. Moreover, it shows moderate evidence improvements in power and the sensorimotor parameter "balance index". Concentric training presents moderate evidence in the power outcomes and can therefore be considered as an alternative to improve this function. Kinematic analysis of plantarflexion and dorsiflexion ROM might not be useful in AT people. This study expands the knowledge what types of exercise regimes should be considered to improve the functional outcomes in AT.
Achilles tendinopathy (AT) is a debilitating injury in athletes, especially for those engaged in repetitive stretch-shortening cycle activities. Clinical risk factors are numerous, but it has been suggested that altered biomechanics might be associated with AT. No systematic review has been conducted investigating these biomechanical alterations in specifically athletic populations. Therefore, the aim of this systematic review was to compare the lower-limb biomechanics of athletes with AT to athletically matched asymptomatic controls. Databases were searched for relevant studies investigating biomechanics during gait activities and other motor tasks such as hopping, isolated strength tasks, and reflex responses. Inclusion criteria for studies were an AT diagnosis in at least one group, cross-sectional or prospective data, at least one outcome comparing biomechanical data between an AT and healthy group, and athletic populations. Studies were excluded if patients had Achilles tendon rupture/surgery, participants reported injuries other than AT, and when only within-subject data was available.. Effect sizes (Cohen's d) with 95% confidence intervals were calculated for relevant outcomes. The initial search yielded 4,442 studies. After screening, twenty studies (775 total participants) were synthesised, reporting on a wide range of biomechanical outcomes. Females were under-represented and patients in the AT group were three years older on average. Biomechanical alterations were identified in some studies during running, hopping, jumping, strength tasks and reflex activity. Equally, several biomechanical variables studied were not associated with AT in included studies, indicating a conflicting picture. Kinematics in AT patients appeared to be altered in the lower limb, potentially indicating a pattern of “medial collapse”. Muscular activity of the calf and hips was different between groups, whereby AT patients exhibited greater calf electromyographic amplitudes despite lower plantar flexor strength. Overall, dynamic maximal strength of the plantar flexors, and isometric strength of the hips might be reduced in the AT group. This systematic review reports on several biomechanical alterations in athletes with AT. With further research, these factors could potentially form treatment targets for clinicians, although clinical approaches should take other contributing health factors into account. The studies included were of low quality, and currently no solid conclusions can be drawn.
BACKGROUND: The Achilles tendon (AT) requires optimal material and mechanical properties to function properly. Calculation of these properties depends on accurate measurement of input parameters (i.e. tendon elongation). However, the measurement of AT elongation with ultrasound during maximum voluntary isometric contraction (MVIC) is overestimated by ankle joint rotation (AJR). Methods to correct the influence of this rotation on AT elongation exist, yet their reproducibility in clinical settings is unknown. OBJECTIVE: To evaluate the test-retest reproducibility of AT elongation during MVIC after AJR correction. METHODS: Ten participants attended test and retest measurements where they performed plantar-flexion MVIC on a dynamometer. Simultaneously, ultrasound recorded AT elongation as the displacement of the medial gastrocnemius-myotendinous junction, while an electrogoniometer measured AJR. The ankle was then passively rotated to the AJR achieved during MVIC and AT elongation again determined. Elongation was corrected by subtracting this passive AT elongation from the total AT elongation during MVIC. Reproducibility was evaluated using ICC (2.1), test-retest variability (TRV, %), Bland-Altman analyses (Bias +/- LoA [1.96*SD]) and standard error of the measurement (SEM). RESULTS: Corrected AT elongation reproducibility exhibited an ICC = 0.79, SEM = 0.2 cm and TRV = 20 +/- 19%. Bias +/- LoA were determined to be 0.0 +/- 0.8 cm. CONCLUSIONS: Using this ultrasound and electrogoniometer-based method, corrected AT elongation can be assessed reproducibly.
Sonographically detectable intratendinous blood flow (IBF) is found in 50%-88% of Achilles tendinopathy patients as well as in up to 35% of asymptomatic Achilles tendons (AT). Although IBF is frequently associated with tendon pathology, it may also represent a physiological regulation, for example, due to increased blood flow in response to exercise. Therefore, this study aimed to investigate the acute effects of a standardized running exercise protocol on IBF assessed with Doppler ultrasound (DU) Advanced dynamic flow in healthy ATs. 10 recreationally active adults (5 f, 5m; 29 +/- 3years, 1.72 +/- 0.12m, 68 +/- 16kg, physical activity 206 +/- 145minute/wk) with no history of AT pain and inconspicious tendon structure performed 3 treadmill running tasks on separate days (M1-3) with DU examinations directly before and 5, 30, 60, and 120minutes after exercise. At M1, an incremental exercise test was used to determine the individual anaerobic threshold (IAT). At M2 and M3, participants performed 30-minute submaximal constant load tests (CL1/CL2) with an intensity 5% below IAT. IBF in each tendon was quantified by counting the number of vessels. IBF increased in five ATs from no vessels at baseline to one to four vessels solely detectable 5minutes after CL1 or CL2. One AT had persisting IBF (three vessels) throughout all examinations. Fourteen ATs revealed no IBF at all. Prolonged running led to a physiological, temporary appearance of IBF in 25% of asymptomatic ATs. To avoid exercise-induced IBF in clinical practice, DU examinations should be performed after 30minutes of rest.
Objective: This study investigated intraindividual differences of intratendinous blood flow (IBF) in response to running exercise in participants with Achilles tendinopathy.
Design: This is a cross-sectional study.
Setting: The study was conducted at the University Outpatient Clinic.
Participants: Sonographic detectable intratendinous blood flow was examined in symptomatic and contralateral asymptomatic Achilles tendons of 19 participants (42 ± 13 years, 178 ± 10 cm, 76 ± 12 kg, VISA-A 75 ± 16) with clinically diagnosed unilateral Achilles tendinopathy and sonographic evident tendinosis.
Intervention: IBF was assessed using Doppler ultrasound “Advanced Dynamic Flow” before (Upre) and 5, 30, 60, and 120 min (U5–U120) after a standardized submaximal constant load run.
Main Outcome Measure: IBF was quantified by counting the number (n) of vessels in each tendon.
Results: At Upre, IBF was higher in symptomatic compared with asymptomatic tendons [mean 6.3 (95% CI: 2.8–9.9) and 1.7 (0.4–2.9), p < 0.01]. Overall, 63% of symptomatic and 47% of asymptomatic Achilles tendons responded to exercise, whereas 16 and 11% showed persisting IBF and 21 and 42% remained avascular throughout the investigation. At U5, IBF increased in both symptomatic and asymptomatic tendons [difference to baseline: 2.4 (0.3–4.5) and 0.9 (0.5–1.4), p = 0.05]. At U30 to U120, IBF was still increased in symptomatic but not in asymptomatic tendons [mean difference to baseline: 1.9 (0.8–2.9) and 0.1 (-0.9 to 1.2), p < 0.01].
Conclusion: Irrespective of pathology, 47–63% of Achilles tendons responded to exercise with an immediate acute physiological IBF increase by an average of one to two vessels (“responders”). A higher amount of baseline IBF (approximately five vessels) and a prolonged exercise-induced IBF response found in symptomatic ATs indicate a pain-associated altered intratendinous “neovascularization.”
The reliability of quantifying intratendinous vascularization by high-sensitivity Doppler ultrasound advanced dynamic flow has not been examined yet. Therefore, this study aimed to investigate the intraobserver and interobserver reliability of evaluating Achilles tendon vascularization by advanced dynamic flow using established scoring systems. Methods-Three investigators evaluated vascularization in 67 recordings in a test-retest design, applying the Ohberg score, a modified Ohberg score, and a counting score. Intraobserver and interobserver agreement for the Ohberg score and modified Ohberg score was analyzed by the Cohen kappa and Fleiss kappa coefficients (absolute), Kendall tau b coefficient, and Kendall coefficient of concordance (W; relative). The reliability of the counting score was analyzed by intraclass correlation coefficients (ICC) 2.1 and 3.1, the standard error of measurement (SEM), and Bland-Altman analysis (bias and limits of agreement [LoA]). Results-Intraobserver and interobserver agreement (absolute/relative) ranged from 0.61 to 0.87/0.87 to 0.95 and 0.11 to 0.66/0.76 to 0.89 for the Ohberg score and from 0.81 to 0.87/0.92 to 0.95 and 0.64 to 0.80/0.88 to 0.93 for the modified Ohberg score, respectively. The counting score revealed an intraobserver ICC of 0.94 to 0.97 (SEM, 1.0-1.5; bias, -1; and LoA, 3-4 vessels). The interobserver ICC for the counting score ranged from 0.91 to 0.98 (SEM, 1.0-1.9; bias, 0; and LoA, 3-5 vessels). Conclusions-The modified Ohberg score and counting score showed excellent reliability and seem convenient for research and clinical practice. The Ohberg score revealed decent intraobserver but unexpected low interobserver reliability and therefore cannot be recommended.
Background: The relationship between exercise-induced intratendinous blood flow (IBF) and tendon pathology or training exposure is unclear.
Objective: This study investigates the acute effect of running exercise on sonographic detectable IBF in healthy and tendinopathic Achilles tendons (ATs) of runners and recreational participants.
Methods: 48 participants (43 ± 13 years, 176 ± 9 cm, 75 ± 11 kg) performed a standardized submaximal 30-min constant load treadmill run with Doppler ultrasound “Advanced dynamic flow” examinations before (Upre) and 5, 30, 60, and 120 min (U5-U120) afterward. Included were runners (>30 km/week) and recreational participants (<10 km/week) with healthy (Hrun, n = 10; Hrec, n = 15) or tendinopathic (Trun, n = 13; Trec, n = 10) ATs. IBF was assessed by counting number [n] of intratendinous vessels. IBF data are presented descriptively (%, median [minimum to maximum range] for baseline-IBF and IBF-difference post-exercise). Statistical differences for group and time point IBF and IBF changes were analyzed with Friedman and Kruskal-Wallis ANOVA (α = 0.05).
Results: At baseline, IBF was detected in 40% (3 [1–6]) of Hrun, in 53% (4 [1–5]) of Hrec, in 85% (3 [1–25]) of Trun, and 70% (10 [2–30]) of Trec. At U5 IBF responded to exercise in 30% (3 [−1–9]) of Hrun, in 53% (4 [−2–6]) of Hrec, in 70% (4 [−10–10]) of Trun, and in 80% (5 [1–10]) of Trec. While IBF in 80% of healthy responding ATs returned to baseline at U30, IBF remained elevated until U120 in 60% of tendinopathic ATs. Within groups, IBF changes from Upre-U120 were significant for Hrec (p < 0.01), Trun (p = 0.05), and Trec (p < 0.01). Between groups, IBF changes in consecutive examinations were not significantly different (p > 0.05) but IBF-level was significantly higher at all measurement time points in tendinopathic versus healthy ATs (p < 0.05).
Conclusion: Irrespective of training status and tendon pathology, running leads to an immediate increase of IBF in responding tendons. This increase occurs shortly in healthy and prolonged in tendinopathic ATs. Training exposure does not alter IBF occurrence, but IBF level is elevated in tendon pathology. While an immediate exercise-induced IBF increase is a physiological response, prolonged IBF is considered a pathological finding associated with Achilles tendinopathy.
The study investigated the incidence of Achilles and patellar tendinopathy in adolescent elite athletes and non-athletic controls. Furthermore, predictive and associated factors for tendinopathy development were analyzed. The prospective study consisted of two measurement days (M1/M2) with an interval of 3.2 +/- 0.9 years. 157 athletes (12.1 +/- 0.7 years) and 25 controls (13.3 +/- 0.6 years) without Achilles/patellar tendinopathy were included at Ml. Clinical and ultrasound examinations of both Achilles (AT) and patellar tendons (PT) were performed. Main outcome measures were incidence tendinopathy and structural intratendinous alterations (hypo-/hyperechogenicity, vascularization) at M2 [%]. Incidence of Achilles tendinopathy was 1% in athletes and 0% in controls. Patellar tendinopathy was more frequent in athletes (13 %)than in controls (4%). Incidence of intratendinous alterations in ATs was 1-2% in athletes and 0 % in controls, whereas in PTs it was 4-6 % in both groups (p >0.05). Intratendinous alterations at M2 were associated with patellar tendinopathy in athletes (p <= 0.01). Intratendinous alterations at M1, anthropometric data, training amount, sports or sex did not predict tendinopathy development (p>0.05). Incidence often dinopathy and intratendinous alterations in adolescent athletes is low in ATs and more common in PTs. Development of intratendinous alterations in PT is associated with tend in opathy. However, predictive factors could not be identified.