TY - JOUR A1 - Renault, Manon ED - Bièvre-Perrin, Fabien ED - Carlà-Uhink, Filippo ED - Rollinger, Christian ED - Walde, Christine T1 - Antiquités et pop cultures dans la haute couture et le prêt-à-porter des années 2010 JF - thersites 13: Antiquipop – Chefs d’œuvres revisités N2 - From the fluid dresses woven from precious materials evoking the iconic statues of Antiquity to the revival of Spartan shoes, two emblematic fashion trends will help us study the place of Greek Antiquity in contemporary women’s fashion collections. Ordinary as well as extraordinary, what do these reminiscences tell? Can they permit to understand the boundaries that structure and govern the fashion’s worlds? Numerous and diverse, the differences and the similarities of the ways in which classical references are used allow us to study the relations of power in which the specificities of haute couture and ready-to-wear are defined. The values, the entry criteria, the operating hierarchies as well as the very acceptance of the word “fashion” are different from one environment to another. From the catwalks of big fashion houses on Avenue Montaigne such as Chanel to the youngest brands, the differentiated readings and uses of Antiquity raise the question of the symbolic value of classics in fashion. KW - fashion KW - antiquity KW - sociology KW - Fashion Studies KW - pop culture Y1 - 2021 U6 - https://doi.org/10.34679/thersites.vol13.149 VL - 2021 IS - 13 SP - 125 EP - 140 ER - TY - JOUR A1 - Doerr, Benjamin A1 - Krejca, Martin S. T1 - Significance-based estimation-of-distribution algorithms JF - IEEE transactions on evolutionary computation N2 - Estimation-of-distribution algorithms (EDAs) are randomized search heuristics that create a probabilistic model of the solution space, which is updated iteratively, based on the quality of the solutions sampled according to the model. As previous works show, this iteration-based perspective can lead to erratic updates of the model, in particular, to bit-frequencies approaching a random boundary value. In order to overcome this problem, we propose a new EDA based on the classic compact genetic algorithm (cGA) that takes into account a longer history of samples and updates its model only with respect to information which it classifies as statistically significant. We prove that this significance-based cGA (sig-cGA) optimizes the commonly regarded benchmark functions OneMax (OM), LeadingOnes, and BinVal all in quasilinear time, a result shown for no other EDA or evolutionary algorithm so far. For the recently proposed stable compact genetic algorithm-an EDA that tries to prevent erratic model updates by imposing a bias to the uniformly distributed model-we prove that it optimizes OM only in a time exponential in its hypothetical population size. Similarly, we show that the convex search algorithm cannot optimize OM in polynomial time. KW - heuristic algorithms KW - sociology KW - statistics KW - history KW - probabilistic KW - logic KW - benchmark testing KW - genetic algorithms KW - estimation-of-distribution KW - algorithm (EDA) KW - run time analysis KW - theory Y1 - 2020 U6 - https://doi.org/10.1109/TEVC.2019.2956633 SN - 1089-778X SN - 1941-0026 VL - 24 IS - 6 SP - 1025 EP - 1034 PB - Institute of Electrical and Electronics Engineers CY - New York, NY ER -