@phdthesis{Scholz2018, author = {Scholz, Jana}, title = {Die Pr{\"a}senz der Dinge}, series = {Fashion Studies}, journal = {Fashion Studies}, number = {8}, publisher = {transcript}, address = {Bielefeld}, isbn = {978-3-8376-4817-1}, doi = {10.14361/9783839448175}, school = {Universit{\"a}t Potsdam}, pages = {220}, year = {2018}, abstract = {Menschen{\"a}hnliche Dinge fordern uns in besonderem Maße heraus. Sie l{\"o}sen Gef{\"u}hle und Imaginationen aus, sie beeinflussen unsere K{\"o}rperhaltung und unsere Mimik. Woher r{\"u}hren unsere bisweilen starken Reaktionen auf anthropomorphe Artefakte? Warum neigen wir dazu, sie wider besseres Wissen zu verlebendigen? Jana Scholz fragt erstmals gezielt nach der Agency k{\"u}nstlerischer Artefakte in menschlicher Gestalt. Anhand dreier Beispiele aus Fotografie, Mode und Literatur lotet sie das Verh{\"a}ltnis zwischen materiell-visueller Inszenierung und {\"a}sthetischer Wahrnehmung aus. Dabei werden neue Sichtweisen auf die Beziehungen von Dingen und Menschen er{\"o}ffnet - in einer Zeit, in der diese zunehmend undurchdringlich scheinen.}, language = {de} } @article{Renault2021, author = {Renault, Manon}, title = {Antiquit{\´e}s et pop cultures dans la haute couture et le pr{\^e}t-{\`a}-porter des ann{\´e}es 2010}, series = {thersites 13: Antiquipop - Chefs d'œuvres revisit{\´e}s}, volume = {2021}, journal = {thersites 13: Antiquipop - Chefs d'œuvres revisit{\´e}s}, number = {13}, editor = {Bi{\`e}vre-Perrin, Fabien and Carl{\`a}-Uhink, Filippo and Rollinger, Christian and Walde, Christine}, doi = {10.34679/thersites.vol13.149}, pages = {125 -- 140}, year = {2021}, abstract = {From the fluid dresses woven from precious materials evoking the iconic statues of Antiquity to the revival of Spartan shoes, two emblematic fashion trends will help us study the place of Greek Antiquity in contemporary women's fashion collections. Ordinary as well as extraordinary, what do these reminiscences tell? Can they permit to understand the boundaries that structure and govern the fashion's worlds? Numerous and diverse, the differences and the similarities of the ways in which classical references are used allow us to study the relations of power in which the specificities of haute couture and ready-to-wear are defined. The values, the entry criteria, the operating hierarchies as well as the very acceptance of the word "fashion" are different from one environment to another. From the catwalks of big fashion houses on Avenue Montaigne such as Chanel to the youngest brands, the differentiated readings and uses of Antiquity raise the question of the symbolic value of classics in fashion.}, language = {fr} }